Lemon.

There are fruits that masquerade as vegetables (beans). And vegetables that masquerade as fruits (rhubarb). And there are things that can be considered as both (corn) and others that can be legally classed as either (tomato). There are fruits that are savoury (olives) and fruits that are sour but sweet at the same time (oranges and grapefruits).

Then there is Lemon.

The fruit of the lemon tree originates from India but its presence in Europe can be traced back to Ancient Rome in the 2nd century, when in entered the Continent through Southern Italy.

The high content of Vitamin C in lemons gives them an important immune boosting quality and ability to manage inflammation in the body; and even somewhat magical powers to alter other food’s Glycemic Index by slowing down the conversion of starch to sugar of high GI foods consumed alongside the fruit (hello lemon spaghetti!). In addition to the versatile uses of its fruits and leaves, the visual splendidness of lemon trees has meant that they have also long been appreciated for their ornamental beauty, dating back to early Islamic gardens.

These juicy yellow fruits are highly scented and acidic, with a ph of 2.2 - and source of the most natural form of acidity. Vital in cooking, acid’s importance goes beyond its sour taste; acid is crucial in its ability to balance.

“Acid is salt’s alter ego…

While salt enhances flavour, acid balances them”

- Samin Nosrat

Lemons are enormously versatile in the kitchen, used in juice, peel or oil format to flavour, season or scent a variety of dishes in a myriad ways; lemon juice is indispensable in a tartare or a ceviche –immersing fish in acid changes both its appearance and texture, lightly “cooking” and preserving the fish while still retaining its fresh and delicate flavour.

“The gel-like translucent tissue becomes opaque and firm; but more delicately than it does when heated, with none of the flavour changes caused by high temperature.”

- Harold McGee.

Lemon juice is essential with fried food, providing important contrast – whether a fritto misto or a schnitzel, a squirt of fresh lemon juice always does wonders. Lemon makes a great marinade for lighter meats, especially chicken, and is excellent as a sauce with escalopes, as well as the simplest paillard.. even the most mundane meatballs can be instantly spruced up with lemon: try a small amount of fresh lemon zest to instantly brighten up the appearance of brown foods, as well as adding some zing.

Lemon -

essential for calamari fritti

“The lemon is almost a must for oysters”

- Larousse Gastronomique

Simply boiled green vegetables also benefit hugely from lemon – in combination with olive oil and sea salt, this is one of the most widespread way of eating greens in Italy. Soups also usually benefit hugely form lemon – a small squirt at the end of the cooking can be transformative; otherwise a larger, more important quantity in the famous Greek avgolemono soup (recipe in the summer edition of Thoughtfully Delicious).

Lemons of course makes interesting protagonists in their own right – with pasta or risotto – try adding bone marrow or fried fish or roasted quail to the latter. A very elegant dish.

Jams and preserves also require bits of lemon in balancing their main fruits – as can fresh fruits – see the macedonia recipe again in the summer edition of Thoughtfully Delicious.

A lemonade from Yemen.

There is no shortage of sweet delicacies made with lemons, starting with lemon curd and lemon peel, and various more elaborate desserts with lemon as the protagonist: the tarte au citron and the lemon meringue pie, lemon soufflé or lemon mousse, and the very summery lemon sorbet (try with mint) or lemon grantina (try with vodka: the Italian “sgropino”). And that’s before we get to other drinks – like the lemonade or limoncello, iced tea...

The most elegant derivation and use of the lemon however must be its leaves – these make an exquisite foil for meats when grilling: try wrapping handcut sausages in lemon leaves and cooking them outdoors: very difficult to beat.

Lemons’ superstar status in the kitchen goes beyond cooking: lemons are commonly used for cleaning in the Mediterranean  due to the sterilising property of acid. And rubbing lemon over copper pans makes them shinier.

You might like to take a tip from Jane Grigson: “whiten your elbows by sitting and reading with them resting each in a lemon half’

So next time life gives you lemons,  be sure not to stop at lemonade.