Asparagus.
Nothing looks, tastes and smells quite like asparagus.
There is no denying, asparagus is the most distinguished vegetable of all.
Assiduous and exacting, it is the only vegetable with its own pan; the only vegetable that stands tall, flamboyantly yet somewhat serenely, towering over the rest; the only vegetable with alchemist like abilities to even effect wizardry inside your body...
The most unvegetable vegetable, in a category of delicacies of its own, like truffles, lobster or sea urchin. Asparagus is almost impossible to get sick of, and almost impossible to dislike.
“What could be nicer and more refreshing than a silver dish of iced asparagus after the play?”
- Ambrose Heath
The start of asparagus season signals the start of warm weather, and it is the shortness of its season as well as the 3-5 years that the crop take to mature that give rise to its luxurious reputation and relatively high price, true since the Roman times. Although its modern fashionable status it seems was paved by the Sun King, according to the French bible, Larousse Gastronomique - Louis XIV revelled in eating asparagus all year round, supplied by his accomplished gardener and the first to introduce asparagus beds.
A lot of faff is made about cooking asparagus. A delightful delicacy begs a certain amount of ceremony, but it is perfectly possible to cook and serve asparagus deliciously by boiling it horizontally and serving in plainly, with plenty of melted butter. (Cook in boiling salted water for 5 minutes - Leith's Cookery; the Italian Silver Spoon recommends only two inches of water, so that the flavours will concentrate.
The custom of cooking asparagus upright, with the tips above the water ensures that the sturdier bottom part is boiled and the more tender tips are steamed. If you do not have a special pan it is possible follow a similar principle by making a makeshift dome with foil above a regular pan.
If doing so cut the stems to more or less the same length and tie together in bunches, which will make it easier to stand them.
Thickness of asparagus varies enormously, and therefore its cooking time. As a result the best way - as is in most cases - is to watch your vegetable closely and to judge yourself when your vegetables are done: this true with most vegetables and especially so with green vegetables: they will be cooked just at the point when they change colour and start to smell deliciously. You can also of course test by inserting a very sharp knife - but this is slightly less helpful as you risk missing the very first instance, or ending up with multiple lancinations.
A tip to cooking standing asparagus is to cook it with potatoes inside the pan, which will help with the ergonomics and render deliciously flavourful potatoes, perfect for a spring potato salad.
Asparagus can also be grilled, which makes it slightly tougher but tasty for a change, especially in salads or as a garnish.
'In principle, asparagus should not be overcooked, as this renders it watery and tasteless.’
- Larousse Gastronomique
The preparation of asparagus is just as important as cooking. To remove the correct amount of the stalk at the bottom which is tough and inedible (reserve for making stock), hold a spear with both hands and gently curve: it will snap off at exactly the right point.
Finally, asparagus must be well drained and dried, the reason for the old-fashioned custom of serving it inside a folded white linen napkin.
When at its best – typically in May – it is difficult to beat perfectly cooked asparagus, soft and gentle with a satisfying crunch, served with a jug of melted butter and a bowl of salt. The clever people of Belgium have taken this further, and serve with half a boiled egg yolk, no more – the ratios here always keenly stressed (- while quantities of asparagus are never mentioned, the quantities of the egg yolk are always exactly specified and underlined...) Guests mash up any remains of the now-flavoured butter with the egg yolk, a method which must absolutely be tried to be fully and rightfully appreciated.
Warm asparagus is almost equally as delicous served with hollandaise (which should be at room temperature, to then lightly warm from the rising heat of the asparagus).
Cold asparagus is typically served with a vinaigrette, a mayonnaise or a sauce mornay. A delectable old-fashion concotion is the “soufflé sauce” – made by beating a couple of egg whites into the sauce mornay and gratinating this layered over asparagus; the sauce will rise slightly and set like a soufflé. Otherwise you can also outright make a soufflé – a recipe featured this month.
In Italy, asparagus is also served with the usual suspects: olive oil and lemon juice, or baked sprinkled with Parmesan.
Asparagus goes well with eggs, prawns, chicken, rabbit, veal, potato, prosciutto, truffle, white fish, oily fish, mushrooms, peas and lemon, as well as almonds and peanuts.
Allow 250-300g per serving.
